Do's and Don'ts in Japan

Don't ask for the "bullet train." It's universally known by its Japanese
name Shinkansen, even on English-language signs and timetables. And do make
reservations for it.

Do remember that you will have to remove your shoes quite often when
visiting many of Japan's attractions, a home or a traditional inn (ryokan),
so choose your footwear accordingly. And don't, under any circumstances,
walk into a temple wearing shoes.

Do take time to visit the town of Iga-Ueno if you're interested in ninjas.
It was once home to Japan's most feared ninja clan. Tour the restored Ninja
House (full of trap doors and secret passageways) and the adjoining Ninja
Museum.

Don't be surprised to see young women tottering around on platform shoes.
This latest fashion fad has caused a number of accidents, and police in
Osaka have banned drivers from wearing them.

Don't expect to find escalators in the subway and train stations. Some have
them, many don't.

Do ask for the "toilet." If you ask for the bathroom, the Japanese will
think you're asking for directions to the communal bath.

Do take along plenty of toilet paper. Japanese toilets seldom supply it.

Do bundle up if visiting a Japanese home in winter. Central heating is
typically found only in offices and big-budget apartment buildings.

Do carry a map in both English and Japanese. You can always point to your
destination.

Do use chopsticks for Japanese food. Use Western utensils—and only
Western utensils—for Western food.

Don't forget that the moist towelette you get in restaurants should be used
to wipe off your hands before you eat.

Do take along an inflatable pillow to support your back on the bullet train,
especially if you're tall. The seats were designed for generally shorter
people. Tall people also need to watch out for the height of doors: Some are
very low, especially in older establishments.

Don't expect the air-conditioning to be very effective. You may see men in
suits and ties using paper fans to keep cool.

Do watch as a package is being wrapped—with precision and efficiency.
And it's all done without tape—just a sticker on the final edge.

Do buy a colorful handkerchief (they're sold everywhere). You use it to wipe
your hands after washing in the toilet—towels are not provided. (Some
establishments have installed electric hand dryers.).

Don't wear jeans unless you don't mind being identified as a tourist.

Do look for the vending machines that offer both cold and hot drinks.

Don't take along a bathrobe. Every hotel provides a yukata, an all-cotton
robe to wear before and after your bath. And surprisingly, one size seems to
fit all.

Don't expect shrines to be solemn and orderly. Prayer, chatting and
photography occur simultaneously. And every shrine seems to have a busy gift
shop.

Do drink the broth from your noodle bowl. Just raise the bowl and drink.

Do take time to watch gardeners build trellises from bamboo.

Do get fax numbers and use them: Conversation over the telephone is
difficult, but most Japanese can read at least some English.

Don't be surprised—or alarmed—if someone stops and asks if you
need help. On our last visit, this happened to us four times.

Do see a baseball game or a Japanese movie. Reserved tickets are sold for
both; get them as early as possible.

Do try to learn some basic phrases, including "thank you" (arigato), "good
morning" (ohiyo), "good day" (konnichi wa) and "goodbye" (sayonara).

Don't expect to see any of Tokyo if you're just making an overnight
connection at Narita, unless you're arriving very early in the day. You may
think it's possible, but return trains to Narita stop running relatively
early.

Do try Sapporo's "black beer." It's difficult to find outside of Japan.

Do rent the movie Tampopo before you go if you want insight into two
important aspects of Japanese society: the noodle shop and modern Japanese
filmmaking.

Don't forget to budget US$15.50-$25 for departure tax. Pay your tax at a
machine at the top of the escalator leading to immigration (hold on to the
receipt!).

Do be aware that there can be severe criminal punishments for even minor
crimes, including traffic accidents.